Welt-sewing machine



June 11, 1929. J. R. OLIVER WELT SEWING MACHINE Filed Nov. 10, 1925 s sheets-sheet 1 lnvenf'or,

T 6 .w @a e 8 0 R n QR J. R. OLIVER June 11, I929.

WELT SEWING MACHINE Filed Nov. 10, 1925 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 I lnvenTor,

John Roger Oliver YWIKM &

June 11, 1929.

J. R. OLIVER WELT SEWING MACHINE Filed Nov. 10, 1925 3 Sheets-Sheet 5 lnvenTor, \John Roger Olive y @311, KM &

A TTys.

Patented June 111., 1929.

sires W F FATEENT @Fti@.

JOHN ROGER OLIVER, OF MEDFIELD, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR T REEOE SHOE MACHINERY COMPANY, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, A CORPORATION OF MAINE.

WELT-SEWING- MACHINE.

Application filed November 10, 1925. Serial No. 68,191.

This invention relates to welt sewing machines and more especia-lly'to shoe sewing machines of the class known as welt-and-turn machines. An example of such machine is the Reece Welter. in which the shoe upper is stitched to the lip of the insole and to the welt strip, exemplified by the prior patents ot' Zaleski et al., Numbers 1,288,366 of Dec.

17, 1918. and 1,361,952 of Dec. 14, 1920, characterized by the use of a crank shaft as the main stitching shaft, operating most of the stitching instruments through links and levers, and eliminating the heavy, vibratory and noisy cams of older welt sewing machines. The novel features of the present invention however are applicable to other makes and types of welt sewing machines, used in stitching welts or strips to various materials.

The general object of the present invention is to improve the handling of the welt in such sewing machines and especially to afford a simple, convenient and effective means for trimming off or severing the welt strip after the termination of a seam. A further object is to permit a manipulation and severing of the welt in such manner as to leave a projecting length of'welt, convenient for the comniencement of a new seam. These devices are used in association with a welt feeding or guiding means, and while various welt guides might be employed the present invention is herein shown illustratively applied to a. machine with a welt guide similar to that shown in prior application Serial Number 21.544, filed April 8, 1925. The present invention is useful in connection with a welt sewing machine having a stop motion which brings the stitching shaft to rest in a definite position, preferably with the needle retracted and free from the workand thread, an example of such stop motion being that shown in prior Patent 1,532,634, issued April 7, 1925. In addition to the objects already referred to are other objects and advantages of the present invention, which will be pointed out in the hereinafter following description of an illustrative embodiment, or will be apparent to those skilled in the art.

To the attainment of'the aforesaid objects and advantages the present invention consists in the novel welt sewing machine and the novel features of combination, arrangement, operation, construction and detail as herein illustrated or described.

In the accompanying drawings Fig. 1 is a right hand elevation of a portion of a shoe welt sewing machine, showing some of the parts particularly concerned in'the present invention, these being mounted on an upright fore-and-aft frame wall, which may be the left hand one of the upright frame walls of said prior patents.

Fig. 2 is a left hand elevation showing the parts at the opposite side of the frame wall.

Fig. 3 is a front elevation of the mechanical parts particularly concerned in the present invention.

Fig. 4 is a top plan view thereof taken partly in section on the line 44 of Fig. 3.

Fig. 5 is a front elevation taken partly in section on the inclined line 5-5 of Fig. 2.

Referring in detail to the drawings the inverted shoe, not shown, will be understood as being held in place to the front and below the welt guide, and with the welt strip, shoe upper, and sole lip, in the path of the curved barbed needle C, as more fully shown in the drawings of said prior application.

The drawings show an upright fore-andaft frame wall 11, which may be the left hand frame wall of the machine, and spaced to the right of it another frame wall or bracket 12, shown in dotted lines in Fig. 3. The main or operatingshaft 13 may have its bearings in the frame walls, and this may be a crank shaft operating the needle, etc., through links,

levers, etc.-, as already stated; The drawings show an eccentric 14: secured to the main shaft, this eccentric operating upon an oscillating yoke 15 from which extends a link 16 to a certain part of the needle control mechanism, I

namely the connections which at the completion of a seam, restore the needle to normal operation. These parts 14, 15 and 16 are at the left hand or outer side of the frame wall 11, and at the inner or right side of the wall are shown various other parts, including a fixed irregular bracket or casting 17, having various extensions as indicated by the reference number 17 applied thereto. The needle G may oscillate about an axle 18 in a usual manner. The work may be held against the welt guide to be described and against the usual type of work rest and may be advanced between stitches by the usual feed mechanism,

while the welt w is laid againstthe shoe and stitched in placeas more fully explained in said prior application. The parts thus far described may be preexisting parts of the welting machine, although modified to accoms modate the present invention.

The plan of this invention is to use a welt severing blade, normally held in retracted position, but arranged to be thrown quickly forward and retracted when the welt is to be cut, preferably under control of the operator.

jacent to the stitching point or needle plane,-

but at a point substantially advanced therebeyond, so that when the welt is severed there will remain a projecting welt end, which may be approximately one inch in length, facilitating the starting of the sewing of the welt to the next piece of work or shoe. Since it is customary in shoe welting machines to feed the shoe and welt leftward during stitch- 1 ing, the mechanism and operation will be described in that manner, although it will be understood the matter of direction is, only relative and that the work might be fed in any direction. As will be seen the particular construction hereof is preferably one in which the severing knife, as it comes forwardly toward the welt, is at the same time shifted to the left, thereby giving a diagonal motion to the knife, so as to bring it to .the desired advanced cutting position with respect to the welt and the plane of the needle. In connection with this action the-welt guide, or a portion of it, or a loop or other element surrounding the welt, will preferably be moved leftward along the direction of feed of welt, so as to give support to the welt durin the severing action of the knife, this being t ierefore a sort of shearing action, the blade and the loop member moving leftward in unison, while the blade moves relatively forward to cut the welt. This arrangement enables the operator, after the completion of a seam, to pull the shoe and welt bodily leftward to the extent of two or three inches depending on the amount of loose welt desired to be left at the end of the seam, followed by an operation of the lever or latch which causes the severing action, the knife thereupon coming forwardly and shifting. to the left so as to sever the welt about an inch to the left of the sewing point, thus leaving the desired free welt end on the completed work, and a projecting free end of the desired length extending beyond the well; guide. The latch by which the severing action is brought about may be located so that the operator can touch the latch with the toe of the inverted shoe at the time he pulls thework out from the sewing point, so that the entire operation is of extreme convenience, and while under control of the operator, requires little more than automatic attention.

The welt guide 20, shown in Fig. 3, may be an elongated conduit member, as in said prior application, having a longitudinal welt guiding slot 21 which guides the welt accurately on its course and delivers it smoothly to'the shoe. As in the prior application'the welt guide 20 may be carried on a swinging support22 mounted on an axle 23, so that the guide can swing forwardly to the work. Preferably the welt guide is held continuously to the work, both during needle action and during feed, being held forwardly resiliently atcertain times and positively at other times, as described in said application.

Instead of shifting bodily the'welt guide 20 to the left to cooperate in the cutting action as described it is preferred to provide, atthe extreme forward or left end of the welt guide, a separate part or section 25, which normally lies against the welt guide, and forms an ef fective part of it, partaking of its swinging movements but which during the cutting action is adapted to be separated away from the welt guide and shifted bodily to the left in unison with the movement of the knife; The

member or section 25 is formed With an opening 26 as seen in Figs. 1 and 2, through which the welt travels and is guided. The member '25 therefore maybe termed a loop member, as it loops around the welt, but obviously it need not be a closed loop, since only the lower side-of the loop partakes in the shearing action in cooperation with theblade to be described. The welt loop member 25 is carried on an are shaped shank 27 which slides in a fixed path as will be described. As indicated in Fig. 1 the loop member 25 is not rigid with its shank 27 but is pivoted thereon at 28, so as to permit swinging movements along with the'body of the welt guide 20, a

pin 29 being arranged on the loop member I and extending into a recess in the welt guide, kee ing the two in permanent alinement, whi e permitting the leftward separating movement of the loop.

The cutting means, while it ma take different forms, is preferably a bla e or knife 30 arranged, at the proper time, to suddenly advance and retract and so deliver its cutting movement. The blade is mounted on an are shaped shank 31, these parts being seen in front view in Fig. 3 and in right view in Fig. 1. In its normal retracted position the cut ter blade is preferably accommodated to the rear of the cutting pointand substantially in the plane of the movement of the needle, namely the fore-and-aft plane indicated by the dotted line a in Fig. 3. Also the plane of theblade is closely adjacent to the left face of the shiftable section 25 of the welt guide.

This gives a sort of hearing action, but it is found that a true shearing action is not essential, and the blade may advance slightly out of contact .with the loop section 25, avoiding injury to the blade. When the blade comes forward it cooperates with the loop section 25, and would cut the welt close to the welt guide, except for the bodily leftward shifting movement of the blade and loop section, as already mentioned.

First will be described a'suitable meohanism for giving the cutter blade its advancing and retractingmovements, and thereafter the meansfor giving the leftward shifting movement to the blade and loop section, followed by a restoration of original position when the blade retracts rearwardly. The figures show the parts in the position that they occupy during the stitching and when the welt severer is inoperative but in readiness to be operated at the finish of the stitching, the needle being shown in its retracted position.

The cutting movement of the blade 30 is produced through rack teeth 32 along the outer edge of the arc shank 31, as seen in Fig. 1. The rack is engaged by a pinion 33, which as seen in Fi 4 is elongated, to permit the leftward shi ting movement of the cutting blade already referred to. Upon rotation of the pinion 33 as will be described the cutter blade is caused to advance, cut the welt, and retract to normal position.

The are shaped shank or carrier 31 for the cutter blade, and the similar carrier or shank 27 Which supports the loop section 25 are accommodated in an are shaped guide member 35, having recess 36 for the two shanks, shown in Figs. 1, 3, 4 and 5. This not only guides the two shanks and keeps them in proper registered position, but is employed to give the bodily leftward and return shifting movements of the cutter blade and loop section. The are guide 35 is mounted on or formed with a sliding bar 37 passing through the frame wall 11, and sliding therein to afford the shifting movement referred to. These movements are effected by longitudinal movement of the bar 37, which for thispurpose is providedwith a rearwardly extending cam pin 38 entering the diagonal slot of a cam 39 mounted on a bar 45 to be referred to. As will be obvious from Fig.5, when the bar 45 descends and rises, this will throw the guide 35, the cutter blade and the loop section to the left, and return to the ri ht.

The several described actions may be effected by the mechanism shown at the outer or left side of the frame wall 11, as seen in Fig. 2. The elongated pinion 33 is mounted on a pinion shaft 42 which extends through the frame wall and is provided with a pinion 43 at its left end. This outer pinion 43 engages the teeth 44 of a rack bar 45, whichis and right.- The rack bar 45 at its up er end has an extension 48 to which is pivoted the lower end of a lower toggle 50, the upper toggle or link 51 being centrally pivoted to the lower toggle by a pin 52, and the upper toggle having an upper pin 53 engaging, not in a simple pivot, but in a pivot slot 54, which has a notch 55, adapted to receive and hold the upper pin in certain phases of the action. A spring 56 normally holds the pin 53 downward in normal position, but permits the pin to ride up in the slot 54 at certain times. toggle may be operated by a rod 58 which is shown extending forwardly from the central pin 52. The operating rod 58 has a rear head 59 taking part in the resetting operation, and has a flange 60 in front of the toggles, for confining an operating spring. The rod also has a pointed front extremity 61 for resetting the latch to be described, and a notch or latch recess 62 near the front. It is preferred to operate the cutter blade by the stored tension of a spring, and a spring 63 is shown surrounding the operating rod 58. The rod is guided in its fore-and-aft movements by a guide sleeve 64 having an enlarged head 65 confining the spring at the front, and a rigid arm 66 extending downwardly to hold the latch. The head 65 may be mounted on the frame wall by a swivel pin 68 to permit swinging movements of the rod 58. A latch 70 normally engages the notch 62, and is pivoted to the extension 66. The latch has a tail 71 which may be struck by the left end or toe of the shoe being stitched, to release the spring and cause the cutting operation. A stop pin 72 on the arm 66 is arranged to posi tion the latch, and a spring 73 tends to hold the latch to the pin. After the operation of the spring and at the end of the restoring movement of the rod the tapered end 61 of the operating rod is adapted to thrust'the latch. 7 0 to one side and thus permit it to enter into reengagement with-the notch 62.

The operation of the part of the mechanismjust described is that when the latch 71 is operated it releases the rod 58 so that the compressed spring 63 will force the tog le from the bent position shown, rearwardly through straightened position, and on rearwardly to bent position again. As this movement starts the upper toggle pin 53 enters The f the continued rearward movement of the toggles causes a complete and immediate retraction of the rack bar 45 and connected ele ments to normal position.

The operating spring 63 requires to be reset, and this should be done without duplicating the cutting movement of the blade. The resetting movement-may be performed by a lever 75 fulcrumed at 76 on the frame wall. This lever is constantly oscillating without effect except when required to reset the toggle mechanism and operating spring.-

A link 77 extends from the constantly oscillating fork 15 to the resetting lever 75. When the latch has been operated and the toggle bar 58 has been moved to the extreme rear, the resetting lever, when the machine is restarted for a new operation, effects immediately the forward thrusting of the rod 58. This restores the toggles to the position shown in Fig. 2, but the rack bar 45 is not thrust down, because in this restoring action the upper toggle pin 53 is enabled to slide up in the pivot slot 54. The complete forward thrust of the rod 58 is terminated by the reengagement of the latch 70 in the notch 58,- and the cutting parts are in readiness for .a new operation at the will of the operator.

As already described, the downward movement of the rack bar 45 causes not only the cutting stroke of the .blade, but a simultaneous leftward movement of the blade and the welt loop member, producing a resultant diagonal advancing movement of the blade and straight leftward movement of the loop member; while the immediate retracting movement of the rack'bar reverses these actions. The operator may shift the shoe two orfmore inches to the left, as already described, before touching. the latch, but it will be noted that if he fails to move' it sufficiently for the shoe clearly to avoid the stroke of the blade, the loop member 25, surrounding the welt and moving toward the left, will contact the body of upper of the shoe and insure the movement of the shoe and welt to such a point that the welt will be out between the end of the seam and the welt guide, thus leaving projecting ends at both the end and beginning of every seam. I The welt severer and the shiftable loop member cooperate to give an advantageous action and result; but it is believed that each of these partsof the mechanism is new in itself. The loop member thus constitutes a means, operating before the welt is out, shifting forwardly to the left, and insuring that the work and welt are advanced sufliciently, after the stitching, so that the severing may leave a free welt end upon the shoe, and in such aspect the actual severing might be performed by a hand knife extended by the operator to a point to cut the welt adjacent to the loop member.

It will thus be seen that there has been described a welt sewing machine embodying claims.

What is claimed is:

1. In a welt sewing machine, a reciprocating needle, a welt guide adjacent the stitching point delivering the welt to the work, a cutter fitted to cut the welt substantially beyond the stitching point, and mechanism operable after the completion of stitching for causing the advance of the work and welt before severing, to carry the stitched part of the work and welt beyond the cutting point, and for causing the actuation of the cutter.

2. In a welt se'wing machine, a reciprocat ing needle, a welt guide adjacent the stitching point delivering the welt to the Work, a cutter fitted to cut the welt substantially beyond the stitching point, and means ensuring the advance of the work and welt before severing, comprising a part extending between the work and the unattached welt adjacent the last stitch and connections operative after stitching and before cutting for moving said part in the direction of the feed.

3. Ina welt sewing machine, a reciprocating needle, a welt guide adjacent the stitching point delivering the welt to the work, a cutter fitted to cut the welt substantially beyond the stitching point, and means ensuring the advance of the work and welt before severing, comprising a member enclosing the welt and movable in the direction of the feed, with connecgions for moving it when the cutter is actuate '4. In a welt sewing machine, a reciprocating needle, a welt guide adjacent the stitching point delivering the welt to the work, a cutter fitted to cut the welt substantially beyond the stitching point, and means ensuring the 1 advance of the work and welt before severing, comprising a member enclosing the welt and movable in the direction of the feed, and co operating with the cutter in severing the welt.

5. In a welt sewing machine, a welt guide, a 115 welt cutter fitted to advance tothe welt beyond the stitching point and sever it and return to retracted position, a toggle pair normally open arranged to be straightened to closed position and thereby advance the cut- 120 ter to the welt, and means for actuating the toggles.

6. A welt sewing machine as in claim 5 and wherein the toggle actuating means comprises I a spring, means to reset the spring, and a 125 latch device holding the spring reset.

7. In a welt sewing machine, a shaft, a needle operated from the shaft, a welt guide adjacent the stitching position delivering the welt to the work, a cutter fitted to come forbeyond the stitching poin ward and cut the welt at a distance substan tially beyond the exit of the welt guide, said cutter being normally behind the stitching point, and means for shifting the cutter in the direction of the feed beyond the stitching point when it comes forward to make a cutting stroke.

8. In a welt sewing machine, a shaft, a needle operated from the shaft, a welt guide adjacent the stitching position delivering the welt to the work, and a cutter fitted to advance and cut the welt, with means simultaneously shifting the cutter in the direction of work feed, giving a diagonal movement, and leaving a free welt end projecting from the guide.

9. In a welt sewing machine, a shaft, a

needle operated from the shaft, a Welt guide adjacent the stitching position delivering the welt to the work, and means constituting a part of the machine and adapted to be operated after the completion of a seam for bringing about a substantial advance of the work and the pulling of welt through the guide before severing.

10. In a welt sewing machine, a shaft, a needle operated from the shaft, a welt guide ing means or loop, and means causing said means, after the stitching, to shift in the direction of feed to insure the advance of the welt before severing.

11. In a welt sewing machine, a needle operated to pierce the welt and work, a Welt engaging device adjacent the stitching point, a welt cutting blade fitted to approach and sever the welt adjacent said device, and means shifting the device and blade advancingly in the direction of feed at the time of severing, so as to ensure the substantial advance of the work and welt and to bring about the severing of the welt at a point substantially 12. A welt sewing machine as in claim 11 and wherein the device and blade cooperate in a welt shearing action.

13. A welt sewing machine as in claim 11 and wherein a single part, operable at will, has connection both for causing the cutting stroke of. the blade and the shifting of the blade and device in the direction of feed.

14-. In a welt sewing machine, a needle 0 erated to pierce the welt and work, a we t supplying means, a welt guiding loop memher adjacent the stitching point, a welt cutting blade normally at the rear of thestitching point, and adapted to approach and cut the welt adjacent said loop member, and actuating means for causing the cutting stroke of the blade, and an advancing shift of the blade and loop member whereby the welt will be severed substantially beyond the stitching point.

15. A welt sewing machine as in claim 14 and wherein the blade and the loop member are mounted on separate sliding shanks, with a guide in which both shanks are slidable, and means advancing said guide, shanks, blade and loop member during the cutting stroke.

16. In a shoe welt stitching machine in combination with work feeding means and a reciprocating needle,'welt applying means, a cutter arranged to move to the welt and sever it at a substantial distance beyond the stitching point, means operating the cutter, and a latch controlling the cutter operating means, said latch so positioned that it may be touched by a part ofthe shoe being welted before the severing of the attached welt.

17-. In a welt sewing machine Welt guide means and welt severing means comprising a welt loop member shiftable forward in the direction of feed'during severing, a welt cutter movable toward the welt and shift-able forward with said loop member, operating mechanism for shifting forward said loop member and cutter while operating the latter, whereby the welt will be severed substantially beyond the stitching point, and a control lever operable after stitching to put the operating mechanism into action.

18. In a welt sewing machine welt guide means and welt severing means comprising a welt loop member shiftable forward in the direction of feed when'severing,a welt cutter movable toward the welt and shiftable, forward with said loop member, operating mechanism for shifting forward said loop member and cutter and for actuating the latter to sever the welt substantially beyond the stitching point, and means operable after stitching to put the operating mechanism into action.

In testimony whereof, I have aflixed my signature hereto.

' JOHN ROGER OLIVER.

DISCLAIMER 1,716,562.Jolm Roger Oliver, Medfield, Mass. WELT-SEWING MACHINE. Patent dated June 11, 1929. Disclaimer filed March 14, 1933, by the assignee, Reece Shoe Machinery Company.

Hereby enters this disclaimer to that part of the claim of said patent which is in the following words, to wit:

1. In a welt sewing machine, a reciprocating needle, a welt guide adjacent the stitching point delivering the Welt to the work, a cutter fitted to cut the welt substantially beyond the stitching point, and mechanism operable after the completion of stitching for causing the advance of the work and welt before severing, to carry the stitched part of the work and Welt beyond the cutting point, and for causing the actuation of the cutter.

9. In a welt sewing machine, a shaft, a needle operated from the shaft, a Welt guide adjacent the stitching position delivering the welt to the work, and means constitutmg a part of the machine and ada ted to be operated after the completion of a seam for bringing about a substantial advance of the work and the pulling of welt through the guide before severing.

[Ofiicial Gazette April 11, 1988.] 

